I had long talked about returning to my National Trail hiking, taking a week to explore a curated journey through our breathtaking outdoors. It is becoming a resolution these days that I stop myself just talking and crack on and just do. So, I take the 80 miles Great Glen Way trail over six days walking from Fort William to Inverness. I am resolved to do at least one a year for as long as I can.
Day 1 – The journey to Fort William
An epic sojourn of 12 hours taking me from Bradway to Fort William. My original Trainline tickets looked highly inefficient, with only two options to get me to Fort William and neither that great. The one with five connections can get in the bin. After a classic conversation with my barber, who promptly just googled a better option I returned to the drawing board. I realised that the best way to get to the destination was a bus service from Glasgow. My train tickets were fairly open, though I had to go through Wakefield. So, earlier set off to Edinburgh, train across to Glasgow, a Mors famous pastie, because they say so, and the Ember electric bus service to Fort William. As a seasoned commuter I knew I had to make my connections as generous in time as possible. As it was my selected route behaved itself. My 20:30 arrival at my guest house, and very lovely it is too, has allowed me some time to chill and relax.
Belatedly Carmel and I realised that we could have coordinated better and I could have joined her at her conference in Glasgow and proceeded North from there. We did get a chance for a brief hello and to meet her colleague from Utah.
The bus ride was fantastic. The Ember electric bus itself glided along, though must have been heavy, with batteries that could take it more than 350 miles. The 109 miles from Glasgow to Fort William followed a similar line to the West Highland Way, a hike that I did many years ago. At £4 for the journey too!
Checking the ten day forecast, it is going to be a damp one…
Day 2 – Fort William to Gairlochy
The Brevins Guest House was lovely, in fact so pristine and well appointed that I felt somewhat guilty existing in it. My predictably catastrophic coordination when trying to feed myself, required an intense compensatory focus when navigating the complimentary custard cream trilogy. A minor victory. Slept like a log. I tried not to use any of the bins, as it might spoil them. An eviscerating shower and superb continental breakfast, taken with continentals, set me up for the first day walking very well. Brenda was the consummate host, with friendly and encouraging banter.
It took no time for me to find the well signposted trail signs for the West Highland Way, quickly navigating myself out of Fort William to the South, which is a shame as I’m undertaking the Great Glen Way, exiting Fort William to the North. The realisation seeped in after not too long, so switched route to find the beginning of my trail.
Nothing is beyond me.
It’s so very nice to be in a place deluged with water, it gives you a slightly misplaced ecological hope. I’m Thurso born, so the absolute northerner, and my Mum and Gran were connected to Greenock and Paisley. I always have the feeling that I am coming home when crossing the border. My tenuous yearnings for an authentic celticism were thoroughly subverted by taking an umbrella, the accoutrement of choice for the discerning Englishman. It says something that my faint feelings of embarrassment, that I wasn’t really doing hiking properly, was quashed by the efficacious power against the Scottish weather. It was not to last long. The brolly in question was one of those cheap collapsibles, that was already riven with structural failings, including the clasp that kept it erect and one of the paper thin struts that gave the cover some shape. Three hours in and it had transformed from protector of the elements to a vicious claw of ragged steel, seeking out eyeballs, cheeks, anything soft and ready for penetration. Having once successfully impaled my wrist with a tea mug when washing up, I knew that this accident trying to happen had to go. I may be wetter but at least I’ll look the part.
The walk is more of a challenge as I have a right foot injury, Plantar Fasciitis, which will cause me some pain on the route. Having assured all that I would take regular breaks on my hike, I found the opening route, a delightful walk along the Caledonian Canal and adjoining rivers, to be fairly easy and without any cover or real places to stop. I arrived at Gairlochy with plenty of time to spare, so hid under some tree branches from the rain while waiting for my transfer to my lodgings, four miles away. Ordinarily, I would have tacked on the four to the twelve I’d just walked (including that early attempt to do a completely different trail), but I’m trying to preserve my foot for the daily hikes to come.
My lodgings, Smiddy House, is another lovely place, and not just because of the Tunnock’s Tea Cake awaiting me in my room. The Old Station Restaurant beckons for a late meal and a hearty breakfast and packed lunch booked for tomorrow. And tomorrow promises a wooded walk along Loch Lochy to South Laggan. I succinctly resolved the geopolitical failings of the USA administration today, I wonder what I will think of tomorrow?
Day 3 – Gairlochy to Laggan Locks
A clear start under blue skies took me onto the woodland trail that runs alongside Loch Lochy. You know those moments where you can’t remember doing something, so clearly, that you very probably didn’t do it? Like packing my phone charger. A hasty text to the wrong accommodation, followed by a more circumspect one to the correct one, ascertains that my host had already spotted the errant power lead and had secured in my case, for the onward journey to where I was going.
This section was quite beautiful with much woodland, waterfalls, lochs and mountains to see. It also has a martial quality with various sites that once housed commando amphibious training and various Highland clans spattering each other to early graves due to some easily negotiated misunderstanding.
I managed a couple of brief stops on the way this time, though the perfect moment with seating on the alternate trail came at the daily deluge time. I found a rock to sit on in the woods for a sandwich and one of those cartons of ‘orange’. A spry American couple, I’d say about my age, sped by me, he in shorts and t-shirt. Chipper they were, full of silent excuses I was for being so completely out paced and over encumbered. Foot injury I declared, unfit and ailing I accepted. Why wasn’t I in sports gear with shorts? Knees I knew.
An early pick-up from Laggan Locks got me to my digs early afternoon for some much needed recuperation for my injured foot. My foot is now properly sore after two days walking, but still well within tolerances, which bodes well for the next four stages.
A couple of super friendly women run the establishment, recognised by my previous host by asking, “ are you having spaghetti bolognaise? Ah right, they must make tons of the stuff.” I have that experience for later.
Really looking forward to Stage 3, with a decision to make as to which side of Loch Oich I take.
Day 4 – Laggan Locks to Fort Augustus
My original Day 3 plan was to have walked up to my lodgings taking the alternative route, heading along the canal path and then lurching to the right (never advisable) and returning the direction I had come along the busy A82. Apparently the quicker easier looking A82 the other way was a form of the ‘Dark Side’ where no verge and constrained moments places your life at risk. The gentlemen I shared our transfer lift with this morning had taken the advised alternative route, and his ashen haunted face when describing his journey confirmed I did well to take a pick up lift instead. I would probably have thrown myself into an oncoming Ember bus.
Forest Lodge was a fine stay, with an extended rest in the afternoon and a great base layer spaghetti bolognaise for the morrow. Hearty breakfast dispatched I was whisked to the trail start. I had decided to take the flat trail on the east side of Loch Ochy, following General Wade’s military road. The alternate route climbs up to Invergarry, adds a couple of miles, and passes the Well of Seven Heads and the ruins of Invergarry Castle. Tempted, not least because if I was fully fit I think I would have taken the alternative, just because. Accepting my diminished circumstances, and understanding that the Seven Heads in question have long since been removed for display on spikes somewhere, I took the flat route. It was a lovely walk, with my foot injury only shouting once Fort Augustus, my destination, was in view.
It is remarkable how quickly your senses become attuned to an approaching deluge. Atmospheric changes caress the consciousness, and ready you for a shonking. Whatever the weather app might tell you, rain will wait patiently until you are at your most exposed, with no cover in sight. Nevertheless, it was a showery day with many moments of blue skies. I’ll take that.
Fort Augustus is lovely, and teeming with international tourists. I arrived at about 14:00 but had forgotten that my accommodation only received from 16:00, leaving me with some cream tea to kill before the much anticipated shower and anti-inflammatories. I passed a blown glass shop and instinctively shuddered at the thought of me blundering about their displays. Eyes away from the delicate baubles and to ‘Lorien’ my accommodation. A greeting from Galadriel was too much to ask, but Billy made me feel very welcome. When the weather stops for a moment I will zoom out for ‘Monster’ fish and chips and return to eat. Tomorrow is a relatively inconsequential eight miler to Invermoriston
Day 5, Stage 4 – Fort Augustus to Invermoriston
O ye’ll tak’ the high road, and I’ll tak’ the low road,
And I’ll be in Scotland afore ye,
But me and my true love will never meet again,
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond.
Well, it was actually Loch Ness this morning, and there appeared to be universal consensus that you take the high trail to get the fantastic views of the Great Loch, and so it proved to be. Ascending up the North Side of Loch Ness, through woodland laced with many clear natural waterfalls, I climbed on an unnatural well drained path to gain some amazing views throughout the day. No rain today, with blue sky on Mars, and spent most of the day NOT WEARING A WATERPROOF!
This was a short walk of only 8 miles, and I had a transfer booked at Invermoriston for 14:30, so was in no hurry to get to my destination and sit in a car park waiting for my lift. So, I dallied on the high trail and just breathed in the scenery, giving me some further rest too. My eldest son Connor has made me some amazing trail snacks, full of nutrients and moulded with some molasses sloppy stuff into a ready ball of goodness. Just one keeps me going throughout the day.
After a descent into Invermoriston, I marvelled at the falls there, and the old bridge, which was privately owned with big disclaimers that you use the old bridge at your own risk. None of the tourists seemed remotely adverse, so took a few pictures before returning to safer ground. The local cafe provided me with tea and Victoria sponge, sharing a table with a young German hiker from Munich. They had just done the West Highland Way, and after a rest day was undertaking the Great Glen Way. Most impressive! We chatted about hikes and cities and left them as their meal arrived.
This bought some time before heading to the car park for my pick up. A familiar couple were waiting for their pick up too, so I asked them where they were from. They had what I took to be a Scandinavian accent, but my ear is really not good enough to discern which nationality and reckoned a confident guess got wrong might indulgently insult. I speak regularly with a Swedish friend and was sure they were from elsewhere. In fact I initially thought there was a more Germanic sense to their speaking, and they turned out to be Danish. I shall doubtless see them again tomorrow! With Americans too, there is a strong international contingent taking the trail, which really adds to the experience.
I’m now based in Dumnadrochit for two nights (despite some initial confusion), and have the delights of The Loch Ness Inn dining for both nights. I am going to treat myself royally to a couple of fullsome meals, and not just the cheapest main I can find.
Two more days of hiking to come, both more taxing than anything so far, so despite this being an easier trail, I’ll be a little challenged. I think the foot will hold out. My Scottish social media spam is almost at an end!
This has been my favourite day so far. The scenes up on the slope were jaw dropping and I had no sense of hurry or rain to distract me from soaking it in.
Day 6, Penultimate Stage 5, Invermoriston to Dumnadrochit
Is it the carefree nature of following a National Trail, the unshackling of routine patterns, that has loosened me up to be more socially competent? I had a lovely chat with a Spanish couple at breakfast, good repartie with my taxi driver and some light bonhomie with passing hikers on the trail. I reckon it’ll be the common purpose of enjoying the area that gives me an easy way in, nevertheless, in the right mode, I have persuaded myself that I can be approachably sociable. Might even be true.
The trail today was fantastic. The high path through woods, waterfalls and occasional breakout to wonder at the view of Loch Ness. The weather was fair again, so I was more persuaded to take longer stops on the way. The photos didn’t really capture the splendour, though they will suffice to capture something of the experience.
I had an opportunity to choose Iron Bru flavoured ice cream from a small cafe on the route today. Meekly, I chose mango, the creature of habit that I am.
My usual foot care and hopeful recovery tonight, with a return to The Loch Ness Inn and good sleep to follow I hope. The plan is to set off at 08:30 tomorrow, directly after breakfast, to give me some more time for the long 19 miles conclusion, with the highest overall climb.
We are almost at an end…
Day 7, Stage 6, Dumnadrochit to Inverness
Forgive my recurring sexagenarian naivety, but what blasphemous irrelevance is ‘Good Morning Britain’? Innocently, I was balancing my grape and strawberry quotient with a full bowl of Kellogg’s crunchy cornflakes, when this smug boomer horror coldly summoned the spare royal and an affronted Piers Morgan as their main ‘news’ story. Its tepid innocuity is as much a danger to the moral character of the nation as the more obvious hardline vitriol, smeared across my recently rediscovered Meta feed. Ed Balls my arse.
Anyway, breakfast was similarly innocuous, though the three slices of ham gave me the protein needed to head off on the 19 miles to Inverness. I passed The Loch Ness Inn, the place of much profligate feasting, and headed through Dumnadrochit to the beginning of the trail. Cloudy and mild, so no waterproof, and wearing my experimental Decathlon running shirt as a proxy for them running out of my size in their walking tops. Have I always been XL? The only difference might be that the running top has a couple of go faster stripes. It was comfy and will see much use. The town was so familiar, as Cam and I had passed through it on our crazy roadtrip from Thurso to Oban (remember?).
More woodland trails, fresh waterfalls and vibrant greens in this most verdant of climes. I confess that the climb to start the trail was a bit of a slog for me, so I took my time in the ascension. A handy bench near the top gave me proper pause, with a nice hiker asking if all was OK? I reflect that I much later passed him sat on a bench with his boots and socks off and only managed a cheery “hello”. I hope he was OK!
The suggested time to complete the trail is 8 hours. This accounts for a significant climb to start. Once again I had to choose between the main trail and a further climb diversion that loops round to the summit of Carn na Leitire (I think). With one last, and inadvisable, kilt lift to my lack of fitness, I took the alternate route thinking I might get some good views. I passed a sign to a whiskey still, in the middle of nowhere, but 300 yards away, and decided that I was pushing my luck already so continued upwards. That was one opportunity that I don’t be ‘popping back to check out’. I can confirm that the clouds and mizzle were more immediately experienced at the summit.
One advantage of taking the alternate route was that it passed directly through a reconstructed British round house, where I had a snack along with a Cumbrian couple. By now I was starting to do calculations on anticipated destination arrival time. The slog up the hill and the detour had eaten into my time. My table at Encore En Fois was booked for 20:00, so should have been OK, but decided that I would try and get some proper miles in now that the route had flattened out.
After a section of road, and passing some familiar fellow hikers, I followed old Highland drover tracks, surrounded by water and lush green woodland as the descent to Inverness began. Sore legs at this stage and a complaining foot, but the finish line was in site! Inverness looks lovely, and may well be a place that I do pop back and explore. As it was I got to Inverness chocolate box castle in just over 7 hours, which perhaps evidences that I am slightly speeding up. Indeed so much so that I arrived before my case, so had to wait a bit as I wanted to change after my shower.
This B&B is top notch, with chocolates, fresh milk and Yorkshire tea in the room. I felt like I was already home! So ends my holiday. Trains tomorrow will give me chance to have some rest, and a bath beckons when I finally get home.
